Kaikoura is a favourite region. I’ve had numerous escape long weekends there in recent years: it’s pretty much perfect because there are plenty of walks.
And I love that Coast Road.
The coast road.
If you have a writerly urge is part of the way you cope with life and that includes events like this one.
It can seem a bit self-indulgent, but what the hey. If you can’t be a bit self-indulgent on a blog, where the hell can you be a bit self-indulgent?
(Genuine question. As a slightly uptight, culturally Presbyterian, Kiwi farmboy, this is an area I probably do need some tips about).
…..Yes, *slightly* uptight. Don’t want to get too carried away about this or anything).
It’s included, in younger and fitter days, some great tramping trips, including climbing the magnificent Mt Tapaonuku back in the late ’90s, and several trips over the Kowhai Saddle, up Hapuku Valley and down through the other side.
Second time on that saddle was a landmark in a different way – going down towards the hut in the dry riverbed, I had one of those ‘hmm..will that collection of rocks hold my foot…yeah should be all right’ moments of hesitation.
And, seconds later a more dramatic moment involving turning a 180 degree turn as the rocks gave way and I struggled to hold my balance. One of the blokes in the group, who was ahead and below me, rekkined afterwards I’d hovered for several seconds and he thought I was going to be ok, before tumbling down the rock slope.
Looked magnificent, he said. Poetry in motion, or something.
Perhaps one of Ezra Pounds more deranged Cantos’, maybe.
The left knee has never been the same since.
Much more sedate visits since, including an immensely productive writing week in an old farm cottage last January.
But it’s a great part of the country: a mix of relatively sedate dairy land, the dramatic Mt Fyffe and the Seaward Kaikouras generally, and that magnificent, and now closed, road.
When I looked onto my digital photo file, I found nearly 200 photos of the region, about half from that road.
First visit was 1990, hitching through from Christchurch with a German marine biology student who had come out to see the whales. I hadn’t heard of Whale Watch at that point – it had been going a couple of years, if that – but word had spread and it was going to be the high point of her trip.
I’ve since done the Whale Watch thing myself: it’s great, though I found the dolphins we encountered more spectacular. About 500 of them, on the port side of the boat, and with the ones furthest away jumping higher, in great spirals, as if to say ‘Wee!! Look at us!!’
The same trip, we did the ultimate Kaikoura meal – crays from Nins Bin, and fried chips. Washed down with some Marlborough Chardonnay (Grove Mill, from memory).
The Kekerengu Store, ideally situated as it is between Kaikoura and Blenheim, is a compulsory stop-off point – the staff and owners are great hosts, the coffee packs the requisite punch and I’ve sat there, written up a journal or edited stuff I’ve been working on.
The shingle beaches – too dangerous to swim off, but wonderfully rugged and desolate. You look out, east, and feel you are on the edge of the world. Somewhere out there, half a hemisphere away, is South America.
It’s a great place to go, to gather your thoughts, and in that isolation locate and settle yourself.
Here’s hoping the geology can also settle itself.